The Desert: Expectations vs Reality

1)  The desert is NOT as flat, desolate or monotonous as we thought. In our first week of hiking we were surprised by the dozens of species of wildflowers, cacti, brush, trees, small mammals, reptiles, and insects. There have also been dramatic changes in ecotones, elevation, and weather. We climbed up to 6000 feet and watched the sage and cacti community morph into towering pine trees. Some days we suffered under the anticipated 90 degree temperatures but other days we have enjoyed mist and refreshingly overcast skies. We were also hit by a late spring snow storm with 20 degree temperatures and winds up to 50 mph. Needless to say, the desert has been quite the rollercoaster ride.

2) What does the Mexican border really look like? At the southern terminus of the PCT near Campo California, the border is marked by 10 foot tall grey-green metal panels. Each panel is numbered with spray paint to aid Border Patrol in reporting incidents. A 30 foot swath of brush has been cleared from the fence to create a long line of sight and to make it easier to track foot prints. Seeing the “infamous wall” up close as well as from high above on a ridge, highlights how arbitrary borders really are. The desert landscape on both sides of the fence is exactly the same. The border between countries has more to do with human design than any objective differences.

3) Thru-hiking is a very different experience than traditional “destination hiking.” When you plan a hike to a beautiful lake or mountain summit, it is easy to get wrapped up in the goal and forget about the journey. However, the PCT is nothing but the journey. Suddenly sketching flowers, stopping to splash around in a stream, and taking afternoon siestas are the goals. Small victories are the stepping stones to make the gargantuan task of reaching Canada more achievable. It seems perfectly normal to hitch-hike twelve miles into town to get free pie or sleep under a bridge because that is the only shade available. Most day hikers or weekend warriors want solitude but thru-hikers often seek comradery to balance out the unknowns associated with a transient life.  Whether it is a day hike to the Enchantments or a week-long backpacking trip in the Olympics, your car and warm bed are never too far away. In thru- hiking however, comfort is found in a bucket shower, fresh vegetables from day hikers, and a stocked water cache in the middle of the desert.  This adaptation to the thru-hiker lifestyle has come much more quickly and naturally than we thought!

4) The people hiking the trail are NOT all twenty-something athletes from the Pacific Northwest. In fact, many are international, ages vary from 10-72, and some have only ever hiked once before. We have tremendously enjoyed hearing the life stories and journeys from others on the trail. The experienced thru hikers and world travelers remind us that adventure is not something you do once, but should be a lifelong passion. There are solo hikers, couples, and even a set of identical twins with their little sister. Some people are just out of high school or college while another is doing a “three generations hike” with his daughter and granddaughter.  Everyone is here for a different reason but regardless it is an opportunity to reconnect with the natural world as well as with oneself. Some might even say it is a one-size-fits-all wilderness therapy.

5) Carrying 6 liters of water (13.2 pounds) is NOT actually the norm in the desert. In years past there has been a severe lack of water. However, California’s huge snow pack this year has eliminated the drought making water in the desert quite plentiful. This has resulted in the “super bloom” of wildflowers and flowing water in seasonal creeks that usually run dry. In addition to never carrying more than 3 liters of water, we visited Kitchen Creek Falls on our second day of hiking and spent an afternoon swimming in the endless pools of water and gentle waterfalls. This unanticipated oasis after a 90 degree day of sweltering hiking was both a luxury and a miracle. 

Ps. This post was written as an article for WenatcheeOutdoors.org but gives a fair view of my desert experiences as well.

Cozy campsite tucked away in the chaparral and beavertail cacti!

Sleeping out under the stars and wake up to this sunrise. Better hit the trail before 6:00!

Lunch break at a water tank!

Sunset at Warner Springs where many hikers stopped for bucket showers, laundry in a bucket, and a school fundraiser spaghetti feed

We found a tire swing to play on!

We found a tire swing to play on!

A horny lizard soaking up the early morning sun on the trail.

Out first rattlesnake on the trail, luckily he was happy to hang out in the bushes after being startled by a hiker 100 meters ahead of us... her coloring perfectly matches the red coloring of the granite rocks

A classic view of a chaparral landscape with coyote canyon, the Santa Rosa mountains and the desert divide we will soon traverse.

A fun day full of wildflowers, interesting rocks (granite, limestone, marble, schist, and gneiss) and spectacular views out over Palm Springs.

One of the high elevation ridge traverses we came across a group of bushes and trees entirely encased in ice!

Found a dead bobcat along the trail. Poor little guy must have gotten too cold.

More ice encased trees from the freezing fog and high winds.

Feeling welcomed to Idyllwild!

The sun is setting so it's time to crawl into my tent... definitely adapting to go to bed and wake up with the sun!

100 miles

One week in, I am thoroughly impressed with the PCT. I can honestly say there is nothing else I would rather be doing right now. 

It started off with a fantastic road trip from Wenatchee all the way south to San Diego. Kyle was a wonderful driving buddy and we were lucky enough to find a few gem campsites as well as a lot of generous friends to crash with. Shout out to Vinny, Emily, Aunt Ginny and Anna, Alex, Colin, other Colin, and of course the trail angels Scout and Frodo. The road trip gave me a preview of my hike north as well as valuable transition time from home life (i.e. Galena Lodge) to transient life. It also gave me time to acclimatize which turned out to be quite valuable (glad the AC didn't work). 

The drive to the border and first day on the trail were a bit surreal. After 6 months of planning it was hard to believe we were actually doing it. But we were! Scout and Frodo made the logistics unbelievably smooth and by 7:00 am three vehicles full of hikers had all assembled at the southern terminus monument in Campo California (a tiny town south east of San Diego). We lined up for a group photo and many people took turns climbing on top of the five cement pillars for a classic thru-hiker photo. I got one for posterity's sake but was much more intrigued by the 8 foot grey-green fence dividing Mexico and the US. Border patrol cruised by several times on the wide dirt road just inside the fence and the panels were labeled with spray paint numbers to make communication easier during "security breeches." It was fascinating to see the border that has caused such hype and passionate debate over the past year. 

We finally hit the trail and began the first steps of our long journey north. Seeing familiar names materialize from ideas into actual places was extremely gratifying. As was realizing that though neither Hannah nor I had done much training, we were still in the top 10% in terms of fitness and preparedness. Turns out running and backcountry skiing are fine substitutes. Kyle joined us for the first three days so we were a trio of young happy-go-lucky hikers. I was a little taken aback by how many people didn't seem to know what they had gotten themselves into. Nearly half of the hikers I've met are international and this is their first visit to the US. Another large proportion are American but have never seen west coast mountains or are just learning how to backpack. It is inspiring to see these folks get outside but occasionally a little scary as well. The first afternoon and evening we spent helping a new friend who was suffering rather severe heat exhaustion. He ended up leaving the trail the following day. 

Anyway here are a plethora of pictures and another post with expectations verses reality in the desert is on its way. 

Hike on!

Chelan

My favorite trailside flowers still peaking their heads out bravely despite the snow... they give me the confidence to keep on walking!

Well, if snow is really here then we might as well celebrate!

Peaking outside the tent on day four to find an inch or two of SNOW! Is this really May 8th?

The dry Anza Borrego state park. Spectacular trail contours for miles offering these views as well as gorgeous blooming cacti.

Strange creatures such as this red butted beetle can be found all over the desert if you spend the time to look closely

A wonderful trail angel named Ed gave us a hitch from the little town of Julian back to the PCT. He is retired and spends his summers helping PCT hikers however he can.

An example of the kind and generous trial angels who open their homes to PCT hikers every year

The strangest shower I have ever taken was squatting in this sink at Carmens restaurant... this is standard for all PCT hikers who visit her...

Giant agave plant reaching toward the sky. Unlike their cousin the yucca, agave plants only bloom once, so they wait for ideal conditions such as this very watery spring.

Taking advantage of the last snow after the storm had passed, I made this little friend to greet other hikers along the trail.

Sunrise after two days of snow and 30 mile an hour winds... what a relief

Eagle rock: the very iconic and rather patriotic rock formation that entices most PCT hikers for a rest break and photo op

In the dry grassy areas where cattle tracks may confuse the way, rugged wooden signs such as this one are blazed with the letter PCT to assure hikers they are on the correct path.

First 100 miles! Time to celebrate.

Walking through a cloud, tiny droplets of water condense on everything including packs, grasses, and even spider webs.

Made it to Mount Laguna! A few photos of the trail so far

Reaching through a hole in the fence to touch Mexico

2650 miles from our goal in Canada and ready to hit the trail!

Border patrol cruising between the southern terminus PCT monument and the WALL at 7:00 am

Strange orange fungus growing on the bushes near Campo

Blooming yucca with a view out from the top of our first big hill. It's amazing how Mexico and California all look the same from a distance

Fog in The Valley... a reward for our 5:30 wake up and early morning climb up from hauser creek... first night of camping was a success!

Mid day siesta under a bridge... we have already fallen into a pattern of hiking from 6 till 11 and then again in the late afternoon

All of the extra water this year is bringing out special desert colors such as this orange cactus blossom

North

Today is the day! May 4th! Chelan and Hannah's official launch date for the PCT!

As Chelan hits the trail, she has kindly passed off some of her blogging to me (her twin sister Skye). Turns out formatting and typing is a lot easier on a computer rather than small mobile device. She's hoping to post occasionally, but I get the honor of being a go-to contact and writer. I'll also be able to keep you updated on where to send letters or packages as the summer unfolds.

Chelan and Hannah met up in San Diego yesterday afternoon. They spent the night with some very generous "Trail Angels" - people who graciously open their homes or help to thru-hikers - and are headed to start the hiking the PCT this morning.

She called last night and reported that there were 22 people staying with the Trail Angels, of a variety of ages and nationalities. Sounded fun! They'll all eat breakfast tomorrow and then get shuttled to the trailhead. Chelan and Hannah will go try to touch Mexico and the start walking north. Game on.

Chelan is ready. Prepped, packed, and psyched for the adventure ahead. And what has she been up to since her last post? Visiting friends and road tripping down the pacific coast... and thoroughly enjoying herself, per usual. Thanks to everyone who helped her out along the way!

And so, they're off! Cheers to you, Chelan and Hannah. 

May the wind be ever at your back, and May the Fourth be with you.

                                                                                                    *And the force. Couldn't help it.

The Redwoods

The Coast

Hard-core prep

Bon voyage!

Ten days till take off

Anticipation is rising and the clock is ticking. 

Since last August when I committed to this grand adventure I have had logistics and gear bouncing around the back of my mind. There are many ways to skin a cat, but there are even more ways to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Each person has to figure out the right set of gear to get them from the southern terminus on the California/Mexico border to the northern terminus on the Washington/Canada border. What will I wear while hiking? What sleep system will I use? What emergency repair or medical gear will I bring along? The trick is finding a balance between weight, price, and comfort. Where will I sacrifice? Am I willing to carry the extra weight for a luxury item like a pillow? Am I willing to pay the extra money for an expensive but ultralight sleeping bag? The biggest challenge is that I really can't know until I am on the trail. Even testing gear on a weekend trip doesn't replicate the experience of thru-hiking for five months. And the reality is that I have a plan but will invariably tweak and change things as I learn along the way.

Here is my new life. 

Shoes = Altra Lone Peak

Tent = Big Sky International 2p evolution

Sleeping bag = Zpacks 10˚ 

Sleeping pad = Gossamer Gear Nite Lite

Backpack = Zpacks Arc Blast 60L

Stove = Soto Wind Master

Pot = BOT Titanium .7L

Water Purification = Sawyer Squeeze

Gaiters = Dirty Girl Gaiters

Micro Spikes = Katoola

Ice Axe = Gribel

Sun Hat = Outdoor Research 

Sun Glasses = Native

Multitool = Snap-on mini

Bug Net = Sea to Summit

Power Bank = Anker PowerCore 10000 

Camera = Iphone 6s

Top Layers = t-shirt, long sleeve sun shirt, ghost whisperer down jacket, helium rain jacket

Bottom Layers = shorts, hiking pants, rain pants 

Socks = Darn Tough (3 pairs) 

Just like a turtle I'll carry my home on my back. Though in my personal opinion, a tent will be a little cozier than a turtle shell. 

The resupply process is another logistical challenge. While following the 2600 miles of twisting trail north we won't pass directly through many towns. So how to feed ourselves?  Every 5-10 days we will hike off trail, hitch hike into town, and find food. My hiking partner Hannah and I came up with a hybrid strategy with some store stops and some prepared boxes from home. Based on research and advice from past thru-hikers we picked the locations where access to reasonably priced trail food is difficult. At these sites we have addressed USPS flat rate boxes to the local post office or general store. They are filled to the gills with dried fruit, veggies, noodles, energy bars, candy etc.  We created a spread sheet indicating when and where each box should be sent and Hannah's wonderful mother is going to make the many trips to the post office for us. 

And that brings me to the present. I am about to start a road trip from Wenatchee to San Diego. It will be the beginning of my transient future. I look forward to transitioning away from a fast paced American lifestyle and instead embracing the slow paced simplicity of thru-hiking.  

How to send snail-mail

First of all, I am VERY excited to correspond with friends and family while on the trail. Writing letters is a favorite past time and I will happily become your pen pal. If you WOULD like to send snail mail or care packages while I am on the trail please follow instructions carefully.

1) contact me first by text or email to make sure I am still "on schedule." Letters should ideally arrive at the indicated post office 2-7 days before our ETA but with the high snow year there is great variability to our itinerary.

2) send all letters or packages USPS priority mail with some sort of bright identifier so I know what to look for

3) address them as follows
Hold for PCT Hiker : Chelan Pauly

ETA : (fill in our ETA at that particular post office)

Address : (fill in from the boxes below)

Place	ETA	Address
1 - Warner Springs, CA	May 11th	General Delivery Warner Springs, CA, 92086
2 - Wrightwood, CA	May 26th	℅ Mountain Hardware PO Box 398 Wrightwood CA, 92397
3 - Kennedy Meadows, CA Only send letters here - not packages!	June 15th	℅ Kennedy Meadows Store 96740 Beach Meadows Rd. Inyokern, CA 93527
4 - Tuolomne Meadows	July 5th	General Delivery, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, CA, 95389
5 - Kennedy Meadows North Only send letters here - not packages!	July 10th	UPS Only ℅ Kennedy Meadows Resort and Pack Station, 57 miles east of Sonora on Highway 108, Sonora CA, 95370
6 - Sierra City	July 21st	℅ Sierra City Country Store, PO Box 196, Sierra City, CA, 96125
7 - Belden	July 24th	℅ The Braatens at Little Haven, PO Box 4, Belden, CA, 95915
8 - Burney Only send letters here - not packages!	July 28th	℅ Burney Park Camp Store, McArthur Burney Falls State Park, 24900, State Highway 89, Burney CA, 96013
9 - Crater Lake	August 12th	℅ Xanterra Mazama Village Camp Store, 569 Mazama Village Dr, Crater Lake, OR, 97604
10 - Personal Delivery Boxes… in Washington we will have friends and family deliver boxes	Any date until we reach the northern terminus… CANADA! This will likely happen between September 15th-30th.	Contact me directly and I will send you a good address

Who, What, When, Where, and Why!

Who: Hannah Kiser and Chelan Pauly – both 25 years old Wenatchee High School alumni with a love for science, the outdoors, and Type II fun.

What: A 2,660 mile thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail.

Where: From the Mexican border to the Canadian border. We’ll hike through the Southern California mountains and Mojave Desert. Up into the Sierra Nevadas to the top of the Mt. Whitney (highest peak in the lower 48 states), through the volcanic landscapes of Northern California and Oregon. Then, into our own stomping grounds of the Northern Cascades.

When: Starting May 4 and hopefully finishing by the middle of September (that’s averaging 20 miles a day).

Why: To celebrate a quarter-century of life, do something a little crazy, and more importantly to raise money for an organization called Inspiring Girls Expeditions. For every mile we hike, we plan to raise at least $1 to help send a high school girl on a wilderness-science education expedition. This means each step is not only part of a personal adventure but also part of a broader purpose. Please go to https://www.crowdrise.com/pct-fundraiser-raising-1-for-every-mile-we-hike-to-help-future-young-adventurers/fundraiser/chelanpauly to learn more. How did you decide to hike the PCT? Hannah: Chelan and I mentioned doing it in passing throughout the years and I always told her she had to wait until I was done running competitively, or she’d have to do it twice. Last spring I decided to take a break from competitive running, started backpacking a lot, and thru hiking the PCT came to mind. Being millennials, this journey of 2,660 miles started with a text: “Hey Chelan, want to hike the PCT?!” and I think her response was, “Yes! You’re serious, right?”. We decided that if we put it off more than a year the probability of us being in a better situation to do it wouldn’t be guaranteed, so we made the leap and committed last August.

How do you know each other? Hannah: We met back in 7th grade as dorky cross-country runners with pigtails, braces and bodies that didn’t fit us yet. They say if you’re friends for seven years it’s likely you’ll stay friends for life. It’s been 14 so I think we’re good. We ran, took classes, joined clubs together throughout high school, and have stayed in close contact despite going different directions in life.

What have you done since leaving Wenatchee?
 Chelan: I spent the year after high school as a Rotary exchange student living in Lima, Peru and then attended Whitman College. I continued running cross-country at Whitman, was heavily involved in the outdoor program and graduated in 2015 with a Biology and Geology degree. I spent the next two summers working for the Entiat Hotshots as a wildland firefighter and most recently spent the winter working at a Nordic ski lodge in Idaho.
 Hannah: After high school I attended University of Idaho and ran cross-country and track while getting my degree in biochemistry. Since then, I’ve been working as a lab technician in a reproductive biology lab at Washington State University.

What are your goals for the hike?
  Chelan: Having fought fire in many of the national forests on the West Coast, I want to explore and appreciate them from a recreationalists perspective. Personally I look forward to writing, drawing, and reflecting on the natural world and my role within it.
 Hannah: My goal is to get back to that childhood-like feeling where you lose track of time, don’t look in a mirror for days and eat mac and cheese everyday. I would also like to make new friends in two minutes and sleep so hard not even a curious bear could wake me.

What are you most excited about?
 Chelan: I am very excited about the trail community and the people I will meet.
 Hannah: For me hiking the PCT is about celebrating my life. In college I didn’t take much time to reflect on races or seasons, or celebrate my and my team’s successes. As post-season competitions would be bigger, more competitive and more demanding of my focus and fitness. I don’t regret the sacrifices I made, it is so rare to have the opportunity to give your life to your passion but now that it’s over, the PCT is all the vacations and celebrations I never got to have.

What is one of your biggest fears?
  Hannah: My big picture fear is that I will love thru-hiking so much I will have to become a bum and continue hiking until I have hiked all the long trails. Once I find something I enjoy, I am really good at making it into my life. A more life-threatening fear is the incredible snow pack in the Sierras this year.
 Chelan: I am terrified of river crossings and running out of chocolate.